July 2023
Hanoï
Cradled by a continuous flow of two-wheeled engine hum punctuated by a few light sounds of car horns, Hanoi, despite its large size, exists on a human scale. The red river, which runs along a large part of it, brings with it large expanses of greenery, agricultural fields, thus moving the countryside dimension into the urban environment.
Anecdotes
Hanoï, Hà Nội means "in the center of the lake"
I was walking on the Long Bien Bridge in the opposite direction of the scooters (it was so hot that day) and then I went down the stairs near the island, towards the Chuong Dung Bridge. I found myself surrounded by agricultural fields, in the middle of the city, and I found this kind of hidden "beach". There were men and children who bathed, some naked "fairy bath", in a family atmosphere that was also joyful. I dove, naked, into the river: it was magical. Then I sat on the steps, where a young man offered me a beer, then towards the playground, people were playing Sepak takraw (volleyball with the feet). I smoked my first Vietnamese tobacco pipe.
The offerings of the mother goddess
I hear music, approach, and discover a ceremony in a temple. There are singers, musicians and a dancer in the middle of the stage. I'm invited in. She starts distributing money and gives me notes when I enter. I'm invited to sit down and am offered water. The two men sitting on the stage assist the woman and change her costume as the songs progress. Often she takes money, in a box, or else a kind of container that her assistants prepare for her in the form of a fan, to throw the notes during her dance, on the dozen or so people gathered amid joyful cries. We offer rice wine, she redistributes money several times, then the girl gives out a pack of cigarettes with a banknote. I ask my neighbour if I can smoke and they all say YES, with their thumbs up, as if to say 'great'!
To eat
Xôi che
Steamed glutinous rice dessert covered with mung beans, whole peanuts, maize, mango, durian, cassava, grated coconut...
To drink
When I ask if I am allowed to smoke at Cà fê Lâm, the waitress brings me a small tray with cigarettes and a lighter.
To tingle
To go out
Observations
Vietnam is the only country in Southeast Asia to use the Latin alphabet.
When I leave the apartment and feel the ambient air, I directly feel the steam envelop me: it is like in a sauna, with the humidity that doubles the heat.
Most of the country is Buddhist, even if it is very discreet. 10 days a month are observed as vegetarian among Buddhists.
The skin of the oranges is green.
They do not hesitate to give a plastic bag for any purchase. I order an iced tea to go. They put it in a plastic glass, with a straw in a plastic pocket and all in another plastic bag. I drink it right away.
People eat pho at 8:00 am.
Many people (especially women) on scooters are covered from head to toe, with a hood, long sleeves, gloves, a face mask and a raised collar. I can't tell if it's out of modesty, or for protection.
The men smoke a kind of huge shilom: they insert tobacco into it and then burn it and suck it in at once. It makes a sound like water.
The coffee is served long, very strong, with a base of condensed milk. The brown tea is super strong. And, finally, the peach iced teas are wonderful. A lot of tea and coffee mixed with syrup, fruit, ice cubes, etc., as if to combine contrasts, a strong taste with sweetness.
There are always rubbish bins under the tables in restaurants and loads of napkins thrown around. I understand later that the fans do not help and they send the napkins flying.
People smoke a lot. The waiter sits at the bottom of the restaurant at a table and lights his cigarette. There are still quite a few customers at the table.
In cafes, you have to ask for "hot" if you want your coffee or tea hot, because they automatically put ice cubes in it.
Drinking coffee is one of people's favorite things to do here. The terraces are very lively. The coffee is very strong. Vietnam is the world's 3rd-largest exporter of coffee, its 2nd-largest producer and the largest producer of Robusta.
Different fruits are often assembled and packaged in baskets as a floral composition and covered with plastic.
8:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m.: these are the rush hours; there are scooters in all directions. They eat at midday, and have dinner at 7:00 p.m.
I wonder if we are allowed to drink on the street. You never meet anyone drinking alcohol on the street, with a beer in their hand.
When, in a restaurant, they offer bun cha and also bun bo and others... it is because something is wrong. The authentic places make only one single dish.
The helmets are placed on the scooters without being tied. There is almost no theft.
My friend tells me that they do not know how to drive cars because they have not been around for so long: the tax is so expensive. Foreign cars are taxed at 200%. And you often come across Porsches.
Many people wear masks on scooters. And it has nothing to do with the pandemic. It was already a habit before.
There are barber's chairs placed along the road to cut people's hair and beard on the footpath.
In a nightclub, people were all walking around with balloons. I didn't understand. A friend bought one for me. You suck in and it sends you gently into the air.
Spirits in the lobbies of the houses. The three stones that hold the pot.
Durian
Shilôm
Orange
Bia Hâ Noi
Hand of Bouddha
Mini lemon
The ride is smooth. Everyone looks at each other slowly, and even if it's going in all directions, it's soothing. When crossing streets, you hardly need to look. People pay attention to each other. Always at a cool speed.
External links
To have internet :
Directly to the airport. Vinaphone sim card $15 usd for 6gb/per day + unlimited phone.
Practical
Hanoï
20 jours